Advice to newcomers part two
I had a bit of trouble sleeping last night, so I figured I'd jot down some more words of wisdom. However I ended up jotting down a lot more, so here's part two of yesterday's saga. It's a bit more advice for once you're here, than a packing list. I feel like this advice is much more insightful of the lifestyle you'll be adjusting to, and a lot more fun to write. So here goes...
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1. Don't talk to the bench boys! These are the guys that sit right outside CRESP and have been harassing students for years. They're not cool, they're older than they look, they don't have jobs, they live with their parents and spend their life smoking weed and getting wasted. They'll seem nice, but they have ulterior motives and will probably make fun of you. A few have thrown rocks at me for walking around with my cat and one screamed at me for not shaking his hand. Some are worse than others, but by all means leave ALPHA alone. He's probably the worst of the bunch, and psycho. Last semester a girl woke up with him in her room staring at her. I don't want to scare you away; they're not too awful and certainly are not a great representation of Senegalese people. This is just some simple advice.
2. Don’t wait till the end of the program to go to the tailor. Everyone I’ve talked to has said the same thing. Once you start going you’ll be hooked. It’s so much fun to pick out fabric, draw up some designs and go and pick up your stuff a week later. I’ve had several things made, but it’s never enough, and for about $8 an item with whatever fabric, embroidery, and style you want there’s no reason not to. Just keep in mind that the tailors are more accustomed to making bubus than Bermuda shorts, so if you’re getting western clothes don’t expect unbridled perfection.
3. And don’t just buy any fabric. A lot is only sold in 6 meters, and it stinks to be stuck with an extra 4 meters that you don’t really want or know how to get rid of. Who wants 8 shirts of the same thing anyway?
4. Whenever possible have a Senegalese shop with you. No matter how cool you are, their Wolof is better, their French is better, their waxale (price disputing) is better and they know the prices. As fun as it is to do it yourself, it’s more economical to swallow your pride and get a fair price. In places such as the Sandiga (sp?) Market in Dakar you absolutely need a Senegalese or you’ll be mobbed by people shoving things in your face demanding you buy, calling you racist, or just stalking you. Again don’t be scared away, your skin gets a bit tough and you find yourself being a polite amount of rude so they get the point and leave you alone.
5. Don’t spend every weekend in Yoff. It’s a nice quiet place, but there’s so much happening in Dakar, and so many sites to see in the area. From the beautiful beaches and cliffs at Ngor, to the artisan market at Point Des Almadies (Westernmost point of Africa), there’s a lot more to do than hang out at the Yoff beach.
6. Watch what you eat. Luckily I didn’t have to worry about meat, but that’s probably the biggest danger. I’ve been eating questionable foods like apples and lettuce since I’ve been here and haven’t had a serious problem. They warn about Traveler’s diarrhea but in reality most of us were constipated the first 2 months. Bring a laxative or eat lots of fibrous peanuts and raisins. That’s was a beautiful discovery for our group. Despite popular belief bananas do not help flow! They’re delicious but be careful of blockage.
Part 2 of watch what you eat is as follows. You’ll probably gain weight. Not what you expect from Africa right? But every meal is a mixture of carbohydrates, greasy rice and lots of sugar. In addition the 20 cent Tempos (like Oreos), roadside benets and whatever else were killers. This is sort of common sense, but don’t forget all about nutrition, and again I highly encourage bringing vitamins.
7. Don’t swim too far out in Yoff ocean. There’s a huge undertow and no lifeguards.
8. Eat at the Egg stands and fast food places. This sort of contradicts number 6, but those places are so cheap, so good, and a great break from the ceeb u jen. They may look a bit sketchy but take my word for it, you will not be disappointed. I recommend Clairvoyance, which is right by CRESP and serves awesome vegetarian sandwiches for 500CFA ($1). They also have a knack for making the best Nescafe (which you’ll learn to love.)
9. Get Bin Bins.
10. Say Hi to my friend Samba at the cyber café on “bottle road.”
11. The names we gave to the roads in Yoff are bottle road which turns into market road, airport/ shell station road, and via via/soccer field road which turns into beach road. You’ll figure out what’s what, and come up with names of your own, but generally roads aren’t named, at least not that anyone knows of, so know your landmarks!
12. Take public transport. Carrapides and clandos (like mini busses and privately owned cabs that have small local routes) are only 20 cents, tatas (buses) go farther and are a bit more expensive but cabs are generally $3 a pop, which adds up fast. Besides Carrapides are so much fun. 30 people get crammed into these tiny bench seats passing money around, hopping out the back. Definitely one of my favorite trademarks of Senegal.
13. Try every kind of food! Buy (pronounced bwee juice from boabab fruit) bissap (hibiscus tea) soow/lait caille(like yoghurt) are all amazing. Roadside vendors sell some crazy stuff to, so be sure to let your taste buds do some of the exploring.
14. You can do your basic grocery shopping at the Shell Station, walk a little farther up the road to The Angel grocery store, or go to Score Sahm/Casino by the university for more western style stuff imported from France. The grocery stores are also great places to make change.
15. This needs its own category actually. Making change is a constant battle. Every time you go to the ATM you get 10,000 CFA’s which are not really accepted anyway b/c they’re too large. However any place mentioned in number 14 is an excellent one from breaking large bills.
16. Bring your cell phone, get it decoded, but keep number to yourself. I think I mentioned this yesterday.
17. Max is a great friend, but a little off. He makes an excellent Senegal tour guide, but has a sketchy past, so be his friend and be careful.
18. Don’t hang out with just Americans. It cheats you out of improving your French/Wolof, and skews your perception of things sometimes and cheapens your experience.
19. Figure out your IS and SL yourself. Really really decide what you want to do, don’t let coordinators decide for you and don’t just wait for it to unravel itself. The staff is excellent at setting up interviews, and finding good connections but you have to ask.
20. Wash your own underwear
21. Shake with the right (they wipe with the left).
22. Leave space in baggage for souvenirs on way home.
23. Go to a soccer game if you have the chance. One of the best expeiences I’ve had.
24. Don’t throw garbage on the street. Just because others do it doesn’t mean you don’t know better, and if you look for a minute you’ll see some sort of receptacle eventually.
25. Bring Pictures, music, instruments, skateboards and things that make you you. So necessary to find some sanctuary at times.
26. Use the solar oven. Banana bread works out best.
27. Buy your fruit from the ‘banana man’ on bottle road. He’s so sweet and is very handy at opening coconuts.
28. Bring your camera everywhere, be careful with it, and ASK PERMISSION before taking someone’s picture.
29. Lock you door. Lock your stuff.
30. Write home a lot. Cheap postcards can be found at Shell. Keep a journal even after novelty has worn off.
31. Tell your family where you’re going, if you’ll be out late, or if you’re going to miss a meal…they worry.
32. Don’t responding to hissing, it’s rude. Finger snapping however is cultural so respond to that.
That’s all I have time for. As usual I’m late, or right on time by Senegal standards. Any questions post em or IM me at aj948.
Muchos love.
Posted by: Amy Studzienko on May 02, 07 | 11:59 am
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