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Weblog for Senegal: Sustainable Development at EcoYoff - January 2006

 
 

last day

My last day in Senegal was a beautiful one. After bargaining for a suitcase for all the textiles I have bought, I went to the beach in Virage with my cousin, Pape. I was so excited to be at the ocean that I ran down to the rocks and started climbing down to the water. Pape seemed worried for a moment but soon followed me --perhaps only to make sure my clumsiness didn't drown me. I rolled my pants up to my knees and stood on the rocks as the waves washed up over my toes. Where the waves washed over, the rocks were covered in tiny craters in which purple sea urchins lived. My cousin picked one up and I too held it. I collected shells and then we, exhausted and hungry, rushed home for my last Senegalese lunch.

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I was most sad to sit down for my last cup of attaya--the strong sweet tea we drink after meals. I love the long ritual involved in its brewing. At home, I drink tea obsessively; it accompanies my studies, my meals, my bus rides. It drink it without thinking. I keep the kettle on the burner, the pot on the counter. I drink it diluted, economizing by using tea bags more than once. Here, however, I have come to love the deliberation of the long process put into one little shot of caffeine. I watch my mother lean over the flame, pour the brown liquid back and forth from the tiny kettle to the glasses and back again, watch the foam build, watch her pour more and more sugar into it. Throughout this, we all sit together, often in silence, sometimes watching tv, sometimes talking. My mother gestures with the kettle. Then my little brother brings me my portion of the tea, and I savor its rich flavor. Having so little of something so strong makes it only more delicious, valuable. We drink the tea in three rounds, diminishing in strength. This fills an afternoon. More...


Posted by: Ashley Williard on Jan 19, 06 | 3:02 am

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ile de gorée

Today a group of us visited Ile de Gorée, an island in memory of the triangular trade and the export of slaves from Senegal. I hoped going in a mixed group of Senegalese and American students would make the experience open for dialog and an opportunity for reflection, but it just ended up feeling like a consumerist tourist trap. This was disapointing and even horrifying. I wanted to be able to really contemplate the events being commemorated there, but I was so assaulted by people wanting me to buy that it was hard to remember the point of the monument. The maison des esclaves did provide some insight and opportunity for apology, but even there people were pushing through one another to get to the sites, to consume the attraction. Aesthetically, the place was beautiful but in a disturbing way: the provençal style buildings and tropical gardens were reminders of the European profits of genocide and exploitation. The constant offers for tourguides and necklaces and surongs resonnated strangely with me as I thought about cultural exploitation. I am glad that I have spent most of my time here as a student and not a tourist.

Regardless, I am glad to have been on a boat on the Atlantic, to end the day with salty hair.


Posted by: Ashley Williard on Jan 14, 06 | 5:00 pm

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friday

Today is our last class and then only the weekend remains. I have been enjoying this week in Yoff with my family. It has been nice to meet more cousins my age. I had a particularly interesting conversation about polygamy yesterday. More...


Posted by: Ashley Williard on Jan 13, 06 | 3:05 pm

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Tabaski

At dawn, I went with my little sister to the beach to see the rams being washed. Words cannot describe the beauty I experienced.

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From there, we went around visiting family and eventually settled at the place where we would be eating (my father's mother's house). Then the men slit the throats of the rams as everyone watched. They spilled the blood into the sand.

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This was an extremely intense experience for me. My ten-year vegetarian mind was challenged to the say the least. I have tried so hard to remain culturally sensitive here, and this was by far the hardest moment of that work. I decided that food is so central in culture that to close myself off unconditionally to meat (based on my experiences with meat in the context of America) would be extremely ignorant. However, all intellectual statements aside, seeing a blade go through the throat of an animal was a difficult (if important) gesture for me to make. I feel that by observing and participating in this, I remain open to the many, equally upright, food choices there are to make. I must not assume that my established ideals are so fixed, but must continue to consider alternate perspectives--espeically in such a radically different context. Without doing this, what is the point of getting so far away from home? If I didn't do this, I would be extremely arrogant and closed-off. I hope by humbling myself in this way I am able to learn more thoroughly.

more thoughts soon...


Posted by: Ashley Williard on Jan 12, 06 | 10:56 am

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drums and dancing

Monday night, a group of us went with Jonathan and Liz to see a drumming and dance troup that a musician from Dakar formed with at-risk youth. It was wonderful. The dancers made us participate, which gave me a chance to finally get some energy out. They played the tom toms and I felt like I was finally experiencing Africa---the part that can't be captured in words or books or a class.


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Posted by: Ashley Williard on Jan 12, 06 | 9:59 am

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end of tour

After the hike down from Iwol, we drove back to Kedougou where we would spend our last night together. I got even more dust in my lungs from the back of the 4 by 4, but this made the campement all the more inviting. A group of us went to the market where we were overwhelmed by textiles and beads and fruit and bargaining and a pack of kids who wouldn't give up following us and laughing at our French. Nonetheless, it was a great experience and I have even more fabric to bring home with me now.

The next day we left around 5:30 hoping to make our trek home in one day. What a long day it was... We were trapped in the bus until about 10 that night. By the end of the drive, we were all quite ready to go to our respective homes and sleep a long, hard sleep.

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On the way home, we stopped to buy rams for the Tabaski holiday for some of the Senegelese's families. The animals are less expensive further outside of Dakar where we were. This made the drive only more interesting as we had four animals strapped onto the roof of the bus. Driving into Dakar, we saw countless herds of them on the side of the road.

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Posted by: Ashley Williard on Jan 12, 06 | 9:37 am

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day six of village tour

7. January

Today, we ventured to Iwol. First we took quatre-quatres from Dindéfélo to the bottom of the mountain on top of which rests the village of Iwol. This drive involved driving off a small cliff into a ravine. African travel does not cease to provide adventure.

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I felt energized and excited for the hike up the mountain. My dusty lungs, however, we not so prepared for the climb. The hot sun and my heavy backpack quickly drained all my energy. I arrived exhausted and this made the place all the more surreal.

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Posted by: Ashley Williard on Jan 10, 06 | 4:56 pm

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day five of village tour

6. January

This morning Becky and I were invited to observe an English class at the middle school. The students can’t help but turn to stare at the two toubabs at the back of their class. The classroom is cement walls and the open part of the wall that serves as an entrance overlooks the mountain. Children snap their fingers as they raise their hands offering answers. They share books and many come late, having traveled from twelve different villages up to 6 kilometers away. The teacher is young, but controls the class well. She is teaching numbers and classroom vocabulary.

Later today we visited the cascades and it was so beautiful. The water was freezing but so refreshing after a hike in the dry sun. The group from Iwol has joined us and it is good to be together once more. We had a chance to relax together, and after our work, the rest was well appreciated.

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Posted by: Ashley Williard on Jan 10, 06 | 4:43 pm

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day four of village tour

5. January

Last night, Khadi and I stayed up late trying to plan our AI for today. We ended up talking for hours and forming only two questions. We were so frustrated with the process that we eventually just gave up.

We woke to a new day with the hope that our frustration had not been in vain. In a way, it was because it turned out to be such a straightforward, nonchalant conversation with the villagers that little or no planning had been necessary. This reinforces the need to first experience, not intellectualize the lessons I will be learning here.

One problem our group faced was some of the villagers hoping to be paid for their discussion with us. We had to explain AI and our objectives once more as we struggled against being seen as tourists looking to just objectify the village, not students looking to enter into dialog with it, to learn from and eventually (through a relationship to the organization with which we are working) contribute to its further development.

We talked with two teachers and the principal of the college (middle school). We sat outside in plastic lawn chairs at a wooden desk eating bananas and talking into the late morning. They were so receptive to the concepts of AI as they answered our questions with inspiring accounts of their education system’s successes, which included the community’s insistence for a middle school planned for another village as well as high enrollment and test scores. I don’t know that I am prepared to intellectualize the entire experience yet, but I do know that the discussion provided me with hope as to the functioning of education in the village context. I think of my mother’s cooperative school as I reflect upon the participation and support Dindéfélo provides for its school. Mothers cook at the cantine and anyone on the street will ask why a stray child is not in school. The mindset of the village is one of participation from all members cooperatively. This provides an ideal (though under resourced) setting for the classroom. Modern education has much to learn here. I worried that institutional education would alienate villagers, but this place has managed to integrate it into their own setting. To become educated is not a way of escaping the community, but of contributing to it. For example, one of the teachers with whom we spoke was a native who had gone to university in Dakar and returned to work in the college. I tried to just listen as the community spoke, to ask questions and then learn from the responses as they came.

I did the writing for the group. This involved standing in front of an audience of two French teachers and another francophone as they dictated what I should write on the huge papers pasted on the blackboard. I don’t think I have ever been so intellectually frenzied. I tried to keep up with them but was quite obviously frustrated with my own imperfections in French and in my handwriting that I struggled for all four pages of work. Regardless, I managed to get through it and I think my French and my confidence are better for it.

I spent the rest of the day in bed, sick from the food and dehydrated and tired from the sun. I need sleep and recuperation before I continue with this work ---though I feel confident about it thus far.


Posted by: Ashley Williard on Jan 10, 06 | 4:41 pm

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day three of village tour

4. January

My group left at 7am to take quatre-quatre’s from Kédougou to Dindéfélo. We needed these vehicles to brave the dirt road to the village. I sat in the very back and watched dust settle on my jeans as we jerked violently over rocks and holes.

The village is amazing. I am feeling so inspired about our work here. I started the day exhausted, losing my grasp on French and hardly able to eat. Kate, Becky and I did our laundry with Khadi. She showed us the feminine way the wring out t-shirts and laughed at our inability to thoroughly frotte. Having my hands in the soapy water revitalized me while the sun continued to drain me of my physical energy.

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Posted by: Ashley Williard on Jan 10, 06 | 4:36 pm

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